Hotaru, matsuri and umeshu

the story of the firefly festival and drinking homemade 22 year old umeshu - plum wine

What is the Omotenashi?

Omotenashi defines Japanese hospitality. But its meaning goes way deeper than the way of providing hospitality. The noun means “to entertain guests wholeheartedly”.


Many cultures value hospitality and Japan is no different. Not surprisingly they even have a word for it -- omotenashi.  But to the Japanese, omotenashi goes deeper than just hospitality, however, it means "to entertain guests wholeheartedly."  I was fortunate that I got to experience omotenashi first hand, and not just once either, but on many occasions.

During the weekend host family stay, I was treated as an honored guest.  I was shown many natural treasures including the many beautiful mountains of Gunma Prefecture.  I toured temple complexes, Shinto shrines, historical homes, and the UNESCO world heritage site at Tomioko Silk Mill.  I was treated to lavish meals including soba, sushi, and a fine kaiseki dining experience.   I got to experience an onsen, or natural hot spring, at an exquisite modern style resort hotel.  When I left, I was laden with treats, food and spirits. I felt that they truly embodied the spirit of omotenashi and am grateful for the experiences they shared with me.

On a different occasion, I got to experience a more humble form of omotenashi; by visiting a small local firefly watching festival, or matsuri.  This was up in the hills outside of Ashikaga and we were driven up there late one evening.  When I heard that we were being taken 'firefly watching,' I admit I didn't expect much, but when we arrived I saw immediately how mistaken I was.  Although it was a very humble affair, it was a totally authentic experience.  There were no tourists in evidence.  It was a festival for locals by locals.  From the ad hoc parking arrangements, to the local women cooking and serving snacks to the selling of local produce and rustic delicacies, it was entirely unpretentious.  We were served yakitori, noodles and green tea and sat on folding chairs under tents.  We bought our tickets from friendly women of the local auxilliary club and proceeded into the darkness of the forest trail.  All around us were parents and young children, local teenagers, old couples strolling through the darkness on a warm summer evening.  The darkness was only punctured by the soft incandescence of huge fireflies, followed by ooohs and aaaahs from the rapt crowd.

Later, we were invited to the home of our guide and he plied us with samples from his cellar of home made umeshu, plum wine.  Carefully bottled from local plums, some of the stock had aged 20 years or more.  We also sampled an number of other home made delicacies; a sour plum jam and honey from the beehives.  This simple act of sharing the bounty of nature that had been cultivated by patient and loving hands, to me is the epitome of omotenashi.  It fills ones heart with gratitude and a sense of belonging and togetherness that is hard to come by in today's frenetic world of consumerism and commodification.  It was a welcome respite and a sweet memory to cherish for years to come.